Vegetable Tanned Vs. Chrome Tanned Leather

What is vegetable tanned leather? What's the difference between chrome and vegetable taning?

Hey fam, Iris here. One of the most common questions I hear when conversating with folx about not only my own products, but everything from apparel to shoes to tools, is, "What is veg-tan leather? Is it vegan? Why is the coat I'm wearing not veg-tan?" 

First off, "green leather", "vegan leather", or "faux leather" ARE NOT LEATHER. They are made from polyurethane or other manmade (plastic-based) materials. Mushroom, pineapple or cactus leather are also made from PLANT MATERIALS in combination with manmade materials, and ARE NOT REAL LEATHER. Veg-tan Leather refers to one of the oldest and most refined processes humans have created to cure hides that have come from living animals, and has been used for milenia by us to create myriad different items. It is a natural product that can lasts a long time when taken care of, and biodegrades naturally.   

Veg Tanned Leather is tanned using tannins (tannin are also found in grape skin and give wine its luscious color- as well as tea, fruit, chocolate and more) extracted from vegetable matter, such as tree bark prepared in bark mills. It is the most environmentally friendly tanning process, and the healthiest process for the individuals tanning the leather. It is supple and brown in color, with the exact shade depending on the mix of materials and the color of the skin. This process can take up to 8 weeks to complete and it's well worth the wait. Veg Tanned Leather is steeped in tradition humans have been doing it for thousands of years! It also keeps that wonderful leather smell. Only about 10% of leather produced is Vegetable Tanned.

Chrome tanning uses a solution of chemicals, acids and salts (including chromium sulphate) to dye the hide. It's a very quick process, taking about a day to produce a piece of tanned leather. Faster is not always better. Chrome tanned leather is softer and weaker than its vegetable tanned cousin. 80-90% of all leather products use Chrome tanned methods. This type of leather can be made very soft, and is dyed easily, generally using dyes concentrated with heavy metals. It's cheaper, quick and is more harmful to the environment and the workers that produce the leather. Chrome tanning is linked to numerous health effects, is a known carcinogen and environmental pollutant. 

 Why it matters?

Vegetable tanned leather may take longer but with it you get a stronger, more environmentally friendly leather that will patina with time. 

Just because you can do something faster doesn't make it better. Since the industrial revolution and the introduction of plastics, mass-manufacturing has taken over global industries and caused immeasurable harm to people and the environment. In regards to leather specifically, the disconnect from the animals the hides were derived from, and the "replace replace replace" mentality of consumers (driven by the advertising industry and profit-based business structures) have buried the knowledge of how leather can truly serve us for decades, and maintains as one of the most environmentally-responsible consumer choices.  

We value each hide that comes into our shop. As a result we try to reduce waste at every turn and never forget each hide of leather came from an animal. It's beautiful, unique and worth celebrating. We aren't mass producing anything. This allows us to have a smaller impact on our environmental footprint. We don't have a warehouse full of inventory that will never sell.

I source our leather from Wickett & Craig. I researched long and hard before deciding on a leather supplier; we feel the leather speaks for itself. After trying a number of companies both foreign and domestic I kept coming back to them. It is one of two Vegetable tanneries left in the United States, and I can't say enough about how much we love this leather. 

Longevity isn't just about creating durable long lasting products. Inferior leather and raw materials crack, age prematurely then end up in the landfill. Properly cared for Vegetable Tanned leather items can be multi-generational heirlooms handed down and shared. 

You are supporting a small business and family. We can't express enough how grateful we were able to create this business and it's all because of you.